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Posts from the ‘Wine Reviews’ Category

Bordeaux 2010 and a Sneak Peak at Château Coutet’s Brand New Dry White Wine “Opalie”

A tremendous way to kick-start the year was the annual Union Des Grands Crus de Bordeaux tasting here in San Francisco featuring the Grand Cru Classe wines of Bordeaux’s critically acclaimed 2010 vintage.  With the very best of Bordeaux all in one room, one phrase could describe the event….A mind-blowing yet brilliant clusterf**k.  Pardon my French, but hey, it was a Bordeaux tasting event after all.  But curse words aside, this tasting was an amazing intro to what critics are claiming to be a marvelous vintage.   Below are my favorites from the event.  But before I dive into those, earlier that week I also had the pleasure of meeting with Aline Baly of the legendary Château Coutet to have a taste of their newly launched dry white wine called Opalie.  Here were my thoughts!

Opalie de Château Coutet 2010  -  Barsac

A 50/50 ratio of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc, this is quite a complex and powerful little dry white that maintains its light body and refreshing acidity.  Immediately on the nose and palate is a burst of sheer minerality bolstered by hints of saline that quickly leads into notes of sweet citrus, green peppers, and a lengthy finish of wild grasses and white pepper.  A very exciting inaugural vintage of Opalie for the folks at Coutet!

 
­Bordeaux 2010

 

Château Pape Clément  -  Pessac-Léognan

Sophisticatedly dry with its talcum powdery tannin and vivacious acidity zipping through notes of black cherry, mulberry, espresso beans, savory spices, cinnamon and a distinct earthy finish reconfirming the firm structure of the wine.

 

Bordeaux Lynch-Moussas

Château Lynch-Moussas  -  Pauillac

Definitely the rustic renegade of the group with its lanolin and wet wool barnyard aromas followed by earthy herbal hints of menthol, ginseng, and dill that are all brought back to grace with a bit of luscious blackcurrant, fine-grained tannin, and lively acidity.

 

 

Bordeaux Branaire-Ducru

Château Branaire-Ducru  -  Saint Julien

Elegantly tranquil yet animated with its aromas of lush blackberries and violets, lenient oak influences, and sinuous tannins that are firmed up by the wine’s vibrant acidity, dried herbal notes, and a long resilient finish.

 

 

Bordeaux la Gaffeliere

Château La Gaffelière  -   Saint-Émilion

Strikingly mineral driven with graphite qualities yet slightly more humble in tannin and acidity, the wine is upheld by its stunning black fruits, black pepper, sweet spices, and gorgeous floral notes expressing a finish of yellow roses in full bloom.

 

Bordeaux Rauzan-Segla

 

Château Rauzan-Ségla  -  Margaux 

And English garden of lilac, lavender, rose, and dried sage that is laced with succulent black plums and mulberry fruit; held together with its velvety tannin, brilliant acid, and a nice long finish of blossoming vanilla orchid.

 

 

-Juju

Grower Champagne Anyone?

Last Monday happened to be one my favorite days of the year.  Why, you ask?  Well, it just so happened to be the annual Grower-Producer Champagne event from Terry Theise and WineWise here in San Francisco.  I can’t think of a better Monday than showing up to an incredible tasting of many of Champagne’s very best grower-producers.  Can you?

And just as expected, I was more than thrilled with this year’s lineup.   But what was most surprising was my consistent admiration for the 2006 vintage.  So a brief story about 2006 for those who don’t know…That year turned out to be quite a worrisome vintage with an abnormally sunny and dry June & July, a risky wet and humid August, only to return to its typically sunny September.  The conditions in 2006 were so funky that several producers worried that no vintage would be declared at all from it.  Well, from what was tasted last Monday, I can happily say that 2006 turned out to be quite a fantastic vintage after all.  But then again, if anyone was going to turn a problematic situation into an utterly splendid outcome, it’s these guys right here.

Below are some of my favorites that I tasted that day.  Cheers to all of the producers represented at the event and the impeccable reputation they continue to earn for the grower-producers of Champagne!       -Juju


Pierre Gimonnet

2006 “Paradoxe”  Brut:  And just like a paradoxe, it starts with a light burst of buttery biscuit then smoothens out to soft green apple, pear, orange blossom and encoring with a distinct kick of minerality.

2002 “Millesime de Collection” Brut:  Creamy to the touch and decorated with bruised apple, cinnamon, nutmeg, dried orange peel, and walnuts.  Showing just a slight bit of oxidation, its zesty acidity and hints of saline are keeping it a kid at heart.


Henri Goutorbe

2004 “Special Club” Brut:  Reminiscence of an autumn dessert with notes of baked cinnamon apple, pear peel, pecans, and honey.  Soft and frothy feel followed by pleasantly bitter sense of minerality paired with toasted pie crust on the finish.

 

Pierre Peters

NV “Cuvée de Rérserve” Blanc de Blancs Brut Grand Cru:   So fresh, so clean like the famous words of Andre 3000,  this was refreshingly dry with vibrant acidity and hints of chalky minerality that perfectly promenades with fresh lemon peel, green apple, honeysuckle, and grapefruit peel on the finish.

 

Marc Hébrart

2006 “Rive Gauche-Rive Droite” Grand Cru Brut:  Like an afternoon in the countryside, this wine is adorned with sweet spices, red apple, and sweet orange blossom; augmented by an absolutely stunning gust of creamy yeast that’s finished off with toasted almonds.

 
L. Aubry

2006 “Aubry de Humbert” Brut:  As if taking a stroll through an English garden, this wine is a floral bouquet of chamomile, iris, lavender, and honeysuckle.  Light and frothy with smooth bubbles, its herbal aspects are well-paired with yellow apple peel and nutty notes on the finish.

2006 “Nicolas François Aubry” Sablé Rosé:  Quite possibly my favorite rosé of the day, its succulent notes of dried red cherry and cranberry were perfectly juxtaposed by the dry, meaty, and white pepper aspects finished with hearty bread crust.  A rosé that I would love to have at Thanksgiving dinner.

 

Vilmart et Cie

2007 “Grand Cellier d’Or” Brut: Like something out of Willy Wonka, this meal in a bottle is a superb reminder of why I love Vilmart so much. It’s absolutely fantastic with characteristics of gamey meat spiced with paprika that has been prepared with a spritz of lemon, yellow apple, tropical pineapple, and finished off with honey-lemon and a vigorous flurry of minerality.

¡Viva España!

When the aging game comes to play, several regions such as Bordeaux, Burgundy, Barolo, Brunello, Mosel, and especially Douro come to mind.  But what many don’t always remember to mention is that strikingly gorgeous country filled with handsome football players and absolutely mouth-watering Jamón ibérico, both of which cause me to drool just thinking about them…Yes, I’m talking about Spain.  Habitually overlooked by the ultra ageworthy wines from its surrounding neighbors France, Italy, and Portugal, Spain also deserves a spotlight for its ability to not only age, but improve in the process.  So as I sit here reminiscing about my summer nights at the Plaza Mayor in Madrid sipping on Ribera del Duero and enjoying Iberian ham with friends, I share with you just a few examples of Spanish wines that I found to be aging quite well.

Salud!

 

2005 Bodegas Muga Rioja Reserva Selección Especial 

How does one not fall in love with the wines from this producer?  Like being romantically serenaded by a handsome Spaniard and his guitarro, this wine whisks you away to the melody of black raspberry, red currants, cinnamon stick, fennel, earthy tar, and a nutty finish.  And just when you think this is all too much too soon and it can’t be for real with its weighty fruit and bold tannin, his burst of acidity kicks in to let you know he’s the real thing and is here to stay for at least the next several years.

 

2001 Flor de Pingus – Ribera del Duero

Just like a female Olympic gymnast, this wine is a powerhouse of both athletic intensity and eloquent beauty with its inky opacity and aromas of black plum, black cherry, cedar, iodine, and earthy rubber.  Its full body and well integrated tannins are perfectly partnered with the wine’s subsequent acidity and flavor characteristics of black pepper, chili powder, serious minerality, and toasted hazelnut on the finish as to merely remind you of the oak used.

 

 

 

1995 Alvaro Palacios Priorat L’Ermita 

Like stepping into the rustic ambiance of an old Spanish farmhouse, this wine bears utterly intriguing aromas of blackberry, black cherry, allspice, and subtle hints of animal sweat.  Further elaborating on the rural aspects, it presents the palate with notes of nutmeg, cedar, tomato leaves, aged leather, and sour yet creamy yeast on the finish that is actually quite pleasing.  With smooth comforting tannin and some zest of acidity still lingering, this wine is drinking marvelously now and should continue onward for a bit longer.

 

-Juju

Summertime With a Kiss of Rosé

 

2010 Castello Monaci Kreos Rosato Salento – Puglia, Italy

 

Lucille Ball meets Italy in this utterly exquisite example of rosé. And just like television’s favorite redhead, this wine is radiantly ornamented with all of the right bits and pieces to put a smile on my face.  Satisfying my need for sweet with notes of cherry flavored Jolly Rancher, the complex side of me is soon indulged with the hints of fresh mozzarella, buffalo spice, rosemary, and salty earthiness that my palate is able to fully savor thanks to the wine’s supple tannin and racy acidity.

 
-Juju

 

Read more about this producer

Wine of the Week: 2010 Zafeirakis Malagousia, Greece

Here were my thoughts on this lovely wine…  : )

As if sent from the Greek gods, this enticing wine expresses soft golden hues and sensuous aromas of orange blossom and freshly cut pineapple.  This lustful wine continues onto the palate, seducing with its notes of unripe banana, candied tangerines, jasmine, cinnamon stick, and hints of green bell pepper.   The wine’s light body and mild acidity are perfectly rounded out with the slightly bitter minerality on the finish.

-Juju

 

Read more about this producer

 

 

 

For the Love of Lagrein

Nonchalantly directing my lovestruck eyes back over to that ever-so-amazing boot, here is yet another Italian splendor to swoon over.  Native to the land, Lagrein is ruby red treasure nestled in the mountainous terrain of northeast Italy’s Trentino-Alto Adige.  Not too young and not too old, mention of this particular grape can be traced back to as early as the 17th century in records of the Muri Benedictine monastery in Alto Adige.

As this land was semi-recently Red Rover’d to Italy post WWI, the German language still heavily dictates over the area.  With its parameters border lining the Austrian Tyrol, the locals still refer to the area as Südtirol, translating to South Tyrol.

So back to the actual grape…Lagrein is a deep colored grape that burgeons well in this region’s Alpine-continental climate and primitive soils of quartz, limestone, sandy marl, and calcareous clay.  The multifarious pieces to this intricate puzzle form together to create wines that are high in both acidity and tannin with bright fruit and savory characteristics.  A varietal that has the grace and poise of a sophisticated lady with the mysterious dark side of a seductress… Gentlemen…if wine were human, you’ve just met your dream girl.

 

Here were my thoughts on a few that I’ve tasted recently…

 

2010 Tiefenbrunner Lagrein

A spicy little number this one is with its invigorating bouquet of freshly baked gingerbread and cinnamon.  Inky in color with velvety tannins and youthful acidity, this kick-in-the-mouth wine bombards the palate with notes of violet, blueberry turnover, red chili pepper, volcanic smokiness, minerality and a powdery finish.

 

 

2008 Cantina Andrian Lagrein Riserva Tor di Lupo 

Fruity, spicy, and savory- just like Christmas in a bottle.  This deep colored wine expresses aromas of roast pork, cocoa powder and dried coconut.  Still blazing in acidity while smoothing out in tannin, the palate is presented with the gifts of black cherry, blackcurrant, allspice, nutmeg, dark chocolate, savory meat, and cola on the finish.

 

 

2010 Elena Walch Lagrein

Pollyanna meets Rebel Without a Cause.  This wine starts off prim and proper with a perfume of blackberry, blueberry, and pink rose petals.  Onto the palate, this little rebel gives that perfume an edge with bold tartness, spicy cloves, a full body and robust structure.  Pollyanna returns to win you back with the elegantly integrated tannin and creamy hints of malolactic fermentation.

 

 

-Juju

German Love

As my tribute to the inexplicably mesmerizing wines of Deutschland, this article is titled after the song “German Love” by one of my all-time favorite indie bands, Starf*cker.  But don’t be fooled by the name, this Portland band makes feel-good music that is ultra comforting and upbeat with a sweetheart touch.  Just like German wine.

 

Those of us who can appreciate a good German Riesling can probably agree on one thing… these are the ultimate comfort food of wines.  Taking in the utter richness of its sweet silhouette while indulging in its tangy zest, an aged German can put someone in a state of pure serenity and glee.  Just like the song, it simply makes you happy.

When it comes to wine, I will always be a sucker for a good ole German. And just like a classic car, these beauties become even more of a priceless treasure as the years go by.  Here are some of the Germans that have made me fall head over heels in love recently.

And if you’d like to hear the song, click below…

Starf*cker – German Love

 

1976 Schloss Johannisberger Riesling Spätlese –Rheingau

Just like a 1950’s pin-up girl, this Riesling is breathtakingly gorgeous with a voluptuous body.  Still showing fresh acidity, this wine presents succulent notes of dried mango, candied ginger, honeycomb, lilac, minerality, and an herbal finish of jasmine tea leaves. No doubt about it, this old-timer has still got it.

 

1990 Karthäuserhof Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Auslese - Mosel

A scandalous and guilty pleasure of sweet and creamy. The wine starts off with a lovely nose of petrol, honeydew melon, and an essence of lavender.  On the palate, the wine expresses sweet citrus, tropical fruit, ambrosia salad, and coconut milk.  Pleasantly bright in acidity and creamy to the touch.

 

 

 

1990 Freiherr Langwerth von Simmern Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling Spätlese- Rheingau

Showing maturity but still a kid at heart, this Riesling still has crisp acidity while exuding fresh aromas of tropical fruit, lilacs, and gasoline. The palate is taken for a whirlwind with the wine’s notes fried banana, pineapple, nutmeg, cinnamon, slate minerality, and an herbal finish of green tea.

 

 

2006 Erben von BeulwitzKaseler Nies’chen Riesling Auslese Alte Reben- Mosel

A handsome young lad of a Riesling with invigorating aromas of creamy coconut and lychee.  Fragrantly floral on the palate with a luscious body, this wine triggers notes of candied pineapple, ruby red grapefruit, tangerines, honeysuckle, and lavender.

 

 

 

2009 Dr. Loosen Graacher Himmelreich Riesling SpätleseMosel

So typical of Dr. Loosen, this is a stunning off-dry Riesling with a smooth body and brisk acidity. The nose is powered by ripe apple, honeysuckle, slate minerality and slight hints of kerosene making an appearance. Honeyed fruit, lemon, nutmeg, jasmine, kumquat and peppermint further decorate the palate of this truly excellent wine.

 

-Juju

Bordeaux…You’re Brilliant.

If there is one thing that I am guilty of, although there are many, it’s that I don’t give enough love to Bordeaux.  With a never-ending supply of veteran wine critics and writers who focus a vast majority of their attention on this region and its portfolio of the world’s most highly collected wines, my reasoning is simple…Everyone else is always writing about it.

 

Not that I need to constantly be a black sheep, but in a world of wine that is still very French-heavy I often find it personally fulfilling to show support for the underdogs of the wine industry.  But underneath it all, I can’t deny the true wonders that are Bordeaux.

And as much as the month of February seemed to have Burgundy as the main theme, March has been overflowing with Bordeaux.  So it only seems fitting that I dedicate this article to some of the marvelous Bordeaux wines that have graced my glass this month and what my thoughts were on them.

1982 Château Certan De May Pomerol

Explosive aromas of black plum, black cherry, and an old dusty sneaker store. Sinuous tannin and upholding acidity with notes of forest floor, dusty wood, sage and mocha on the finish to complete a well integrated Pomerol that is drinking fantastically now.

 

1986 Château Haut-Brion Pessac-Léognan

Exposing its maturity with a ruby core and slightly tawny rim, this blend is amazingly synergized with its tannin and bright acidity.  With aromas like that of a dusty barnyard after the rain, on the palate it displays black cherry, peppercorn, salted pork, menthol, and an earthy finish.



1988 Château Gruaud Larose Grand Cru Saint-Julien

An impressive wine with pungent and satisfying aromas of charcoaled zucchini, dried roses, black plum, and blackberry. A powerful combination of gripping tannin and juicy acidity, this wine presents the palate with notes of rotisserie meat, tar, black pepper and a smoky finish.

 

1995 Château Monbousquet Saint Émilion

A cloudy ruby color with intriguing aromas of dusty pinewood and black currant.  Elegant yet powerful in tannin and acidity, the velvety personality of this wine shows a superb palate of black cherry, black licorice, nutmeg, cedar, black pepper, and a dry dirt finish.

 

1995 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande Pauillac
A perfect combination of grace and muscle, this wine expresses aromas of smoked meat, lavender, red plum & red cherry.  Tickling tannin and perpetuating acidity is well partnered with a palate of cough syrup, burnt wood, black pepper, and barbecued asparagus on the finish.

 

2008 Château Hosanna Pomerol

A velvety masterpiece with an addicting mixture of sophistication and rugged masculinity.  This wine layers in notes of black plum, blackberry, lilac, espresso beans, dark chocolate, tar, and minerality on the finish.  With such delicious intensity and poise, it will be exciting to see how this wine develops over the next two decades.

 

2008 Château Brane-Cantenac Margaux

Dense in structure yet refined in flavor, this wine is a real showstopper with aromas of freshly cut pink roses, creamy blackberry, blueberry, and cinnamon.  A smooth operator with a voluptuous body and well integrated tannin, the journey is continued onto the palate with notes of cloves, savory meat, jalapeno, vanilla extract, a malt chocolate finish.

 

 

And I can’t forget to show some love to the whites…

 

2009 Château Lamothe Blanc de Haux

 An incredible value wine retailing at about $14, a crisp white with aromas of sea grasses, bruised apple, pear, and jasmine.  On the palate, its light body and fresh acidity is harmonized with notes of sea salt, white pepper, minerality, and a grassy finish.

 

 

2003 Château Climens Barsac, Sauternes

A world without Sauternes is no world at all.  The nose of this wine is absolutely invigorating with aromas of pineapple, candied tangerine, and slight nail varnish.  With its full body and sensational acidity, this wine offers the palate a succulent combination of sugar and spice with notes of salted caramel, toffee, marmalade, cocoa powder, vanilla leaf, Chai spice, and Hot Tamales (the candy) on the finish.

-Juju

Gewürztraminer: A New & Old World Beauty

Gewürztraminer – how to describe this wine… Flamboyant as a 16-year-old girl dolled up for a Madonna concert circa 1985.  As that can be a bit much for many people, gewürztraminer has had a rough history with trying to gain fans.  As the official grape varietal responsible for making me fall in love with wine several years ago, I am one of those who have learned to embrace its beauty.

Producing deep golden colored wines with undeniably pungent aromatics, this easily mutated pink skinned grape has a knotty history with strong speculation of it being synonymous with Savagnin Rose. As it is believed that Traminer originated in the village of Tramin in Alto Adige of Italy, gewürztraminer can now be found sporadically throughout both hemispheres.  Amongst these areas are Alsace in France, Germany, Austria, California & the Pacific Northwest, New Zealand, Australia, South Africa, and of course, Italy.

Although both the Old World and New World have produced these wines successfully, the slight differences in style can still be fairly distinguishable.  Having recently tasted a New World and an Old World gewürztraminer, both with a bit of age on them, here were my thoughts on how they compare.

New World

2001 Corison Gewürztraminer Corazón –  Anderson Valley, California

Another splendid creation from the Anderson Valley, this gewürztraminer is still kicking with its clever acidity and exotic aromas of fresh tropical fruit and honeysuckle.  On the palate this wine expresses the classic sweet and spicy combo of tangerine, lychee, ginger, nutmeg, white pepper, salty minerality, and a zesty bell pepper finish.

Old World

1998 Domaine Weinbach Gewürztraminer Altenbourg Vendanges Tardives –   Alsace, France

Alsace satisfies yet again with this mature golden hued wine and its perfume of fresh cut pineapple, lychee, orange marmalade and jasmine.  Both herbal and luscious like a sweetened tea, this wine further mesmerizes my palate with honeycomb, green cardamom, cumin, white pepper, pine needles, tree sap, spicy minerality, and flirty acidity that leaves me wanting more.


P.S.  If you haven’t already, give a gewürz a chance!  :)

-Juju

February – The Month of Love

February:  Short, sweet, and full of romance.  Not surprisingly, this particular month of mine was filled with oodles of red Burgundy.  And why wouldn’t it be?  Fragrant, velvety, complex, and seductive… ironically, everything that men love about women.  As Burgundy and its terroir are so utterly perplexing beyond any other wine region in the world, as is the love between humans.

Here is what I thought about some of the Burgundy wines that Cupid has flung my way during this amorous month.

2004 Joseph Drouhin Bonnes Mares

Another beautiful Burgundy creation from Joseph Drouhin with rustic aromas of barnyard and pastrami.  Simply juicy in acidity and elegant tannins are displayed alongside notes of red cherry, savory peppercorns, leather and an earthy tar finish.

 

 

 

 

 

 

2008 Domaine Joseph Roty Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Fontenys  

An incredibly attractive nose of toffee, red cherry, and menthol.  Light in body with fresh acidity, on the palate this wine exudes notes of Harar coffee beans, redcurrant, mint leaves, and a cedar finish.

 

 

 

 

2009 Domaine Michel Gros Chambolle-Musigny 

A striking wine with savory meatiness, red cherry, cranberry, and nutmeg on the nose. The palate reflects the nose with notes of salted ham, red berries, black pepper, and a bold kick of tobacco on the finish.  Light in body with sensible tannins, this wine really delivers.

 

 

 

 

 

 

2007 Domaine de la Vougeraie Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Bel-Air

Dark ruby in color with aromas of unripe strawberries, lavender, and dusty paper.  Earthy and spice is what I would consider this wine with its notes of red cherry, brown sugar, cocoa, black licorice, spicy minerality, and a charcoal finish.  There is nice acidity and this wine is quite voluptuous for a Pinot Noir.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2000 Domaine Jean Chauvenet Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Damodes 

This juxtapose vintage is fascinating and complex with strong secondary characteristics of black olives, wet leaves, and pronounced minerality. Despite these powerful features, this medium-body wine is still able to carry distinct fruit notes of strawberry jam and red cherry. I consider this wine a best of both worlds for Pinot Noir.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I hope you all had a wonderful Valentine’s Day!

-Juju

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