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Archive for March, 2012

Bordeaux…You’re Brilliant.

If there is one thing that I am guilty of, although there are many, it’s that I don’t give enough love to Bordeaux.  With a never-ending supply of veteran wine critics and writers who focus a vast majority of their attention on this region and its portfolio of the world’s most highly collected wines, my reasoning is simple…Everyone else is always writing about it.

 

Not that I need to constantly be a black sheep, but in a world of wine that is still very French-heavy I often find it personally fulfilling to show support for the underdogs of the wine industry.  But underneath it all, I can’t deny the true wonders that are Bordeaux.

And as much as the month of February seemed to have Burgundy as the main theme, March has been overflowing with Bordeaux.  So it only seems fitting that I dedicate this article to some of the marvelous Bordeaux wines that have graced my glass this month and what my thoughts were on them.

1982 Château Certan De May Pomerol

Explosive aromas of black plum, black cherry, and an old dusty sneaker store. Sinuous tannin and upholding acidity with notes of forest floor, dusty wood, sage and mocha on the finish to complete a well integrated Pomerol that is drinking fantastically now.

 

1986 Château Haut-Brion Pessac-Léognan

Exposing its maturity with a ruby core and slightly tawny rim, this blend is amazingly synergized with its tannin and bright acidity.  With aromas like that of a dusty barnyard after the rain, on the palate it displays black cherry, peppercorn, salted pork, menthol, and an earthy finish.



1988 Château Gruaud Larose Grand Cru Saint-Julien

An impressive wine with pungent and satisfying aromas of charcoaled zucchini, dried roses, black plum, and blackberry. A powerful combination of gripping tannin and juicy acidity, this wine presents the palate with notes of rotisserie meat, tar, black pepper and a smoky finish.

 

1995 Château Monbousquet Saint Émilion

A cloudy ruby color with intriguing aromas of dusty pinewood and black currant.  Elegant yet powerful in tannin and acidity, the velvety personality of this wine shows a superb palate of black cherry, black licorice, nutmeg, cedar, black pepper, and a dry dirt finish.

 

1995 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande Pauillac
A perfect combination of grace and muscle, this wine expresses aromas of smoked meat, lavender, red plum & red cherry.  Tickling tannin and perpetuating acidity is well partnered with a palate of cough syrup, burnt wood, black pepper, and barbecued asparagus on the finish.

 

2008 Château Hosanna Pomerol

A velvety masterpiece with an addicting mixture of sophistication and rugged masculinity.  This wine layers in notes of black plum, blackberry, lilac, espresso beans, dark chocolate, tar, and minerality on the finish.  With such delicious intensity and poise, it will be exciting to see how this wine develops over the next two decades.

 

2008 Château Brane-Cantenac Margaux

Dense in structure yet refined in flavor, this wine is a real showstopper with aromas of freshly cut pink roses, creamy blackberry, blueberry, and cinnamon.  A smooth operator with a voluptuous body and well integrated tannin, the journey is continued onto the palate with notes of cloves, savory meat, jalapeno, vanilla extract, a malt chocolate finish.

 

 

And I can’t forget to show some love to the whites…

 

2009 Château Lamothe Blanc de Haux

 An incredible value wine retailing at about $14, a crisp white with aromas of sea grasses, bruised apple, pear, and jasmine.  On the palate, its light body and fresh acidity is harmonized with notes of sea salt, white pepper, minerality, and a grassy finish.

 

 

2003 Château Climens Barsac, Sauternes

A world without Sauternes is no world at all.  The nose of this wine is absolutely invigorating with aromas of pineapple, candied tangerine, and slight nail varnish.  With its full body and sensational acidity, this wine offers the palate a succulent combination of sugar and spice with notes of salted caramel, toffee, marmalade, cocoa powder, vanilla leaf, Chai spice, and Hot Tamales (the candy) on the finish.

-Juju

Central Otago – A True Kiwi Wonder

New Zealand – A country blessed with tranquil landscapes, adventurous mountain ranges, never-ending natural wonders, and of course, the All Blacks.  But for now, I’ll keep the daydreaming of muscular rugby players performing the Haka to a minimum…..Okay and back on track.  With the amazing lineup of geological marvels that make up these two islands in the South Pacific, it should surprise no one that this country is home to yet another natural phenomenon…wine.

So what is it about wine that makes New Zealand even more amazing? Two words – Central Otago. It has been heavily debated in the past, but until someone decides to grow grapes in Antarctica (with climate change who knows, right?) Central Otago is currently the most southern wine region in the entire world. Being the highest in altitude for New Zealand wines, these vineyards rest upon the glacial valleys that blanket the central portion of the South Island. Sheltered by rugged mountain landscapes, Central Otago has desert like conditions and is the only area of the country that receives a consistent Continental climate with hot dry summers and brisk winters.

Geeked out yet?  Just a little bit more, I promise…

Those aspects paired with a range of quick draining soils from glacial schist, loams, and windblown sands elicit the region’s focus on Pinot Noir, Riesling, and Pinot Gris. Known to produce these wines in a style that is a perfect blend of  elegant, complex, and powerful, this region is truly a hidden gem with utterly remarkable wine. So to put that into layman’s terms, if you have never had wine from Central Otago in your glass, the injustice you’re doing to yourself is catastrophic.  Okay, maybe not that extreme, but you really should try it. :)

What producer from Central Otago do I like?

2010 Felton Road Bannockburn Pinot Noir – Central Otago, New Zealand

This youthful wine has a deep colored core with luscious aromas of burnt marshmallows and rose petals. Light in body with juicy acidity, this Pinot presents the palate with its gorgeous floral notes, strawberry, cinnamon, black pepper and new leather on the finish.

2010 Felton Road Cornish Point Pinot Noir – Central Otago, New Zealand

A bona fide crowd pleaser, this Pinot carries enticingly sweet aromas of black cherry, black plum, and violets. Light in weight, crisp with acidity, and graceful with tannins, this wine satisfies the palate with additional notes of cooked tomatoes, cocoa, black pepper, leather and an earthy finish.

-Juju

Tasteful Tannins Felton Road Central Otago

Gewürztraminer: A New & Old World Beauty

Gewürztraminer – how to describe this wine… Flamboyant as a 16-year-old girl dolled up for a Madonna concert circa 1985.  As that can be a bit much for many people, gewürztraminer has had a rough history with trying to gain fans.  As the official grape varietal responsible for making me fall in love with wine several years ago, I am one of those who have learned to embrace its beauty.

Producing deep golden colored wines with undeniably pungent aromatics, this easily mutated pink skinned grape has a knotty history with strong speculation of it being synonymous with Savagnin Rose. As it is believed that Traminer originated in the village of Tramin in Alto Adige of Italy, gewürztraminer can now be found sporadically throughout both hemispheres.  Amongst these areas are Alsace in France, Germany, Austria, California & the Pacific Northwest, New Zealand, Australia, South Africa, and of course, Italy.

Although both the Old World and New World have produced these wines successfully, the slight differences in style can still be fairly distinguishable.  Having recently tasted a New World and an Old World gewürztraminer, both with a bit of age on them, here were my thoughts on how they compare.

New World

2001 Corison Gewürztraminer Corazón –  Anderson Valley, California

Another splendid creation from the Anderson Valley, this gewürztraminer is still kicking with its clever acidity and exotic aromas of fresh tropical fruit and honeysuckle.  On the palate this wine expresses the classic sweet and spicy combo of tangerine, lychee, ginger, nutmeg, white pepper, salty minerality, and a zesty bell pepper finish.

Old World

1998 Domaine Weinbach Gewürztraminer Altenbourg Vendanges Tardives –   Alsace, France

Alsace satisfies yet again with this mature golden hued wine and its perfume of fresh cut pineapple, lychee, orange marmalade and jasmine.  Both herbal and luscious like a sweetened tea, this wine further mesmerizes my palate with honeycomb, green cardamom, cumin, white pepper, pine needles, tree sap, spicy minerality, and flirty acidity that leaves me wanting more.


P.S.  If you haven’t already, give a gewürz a chance!  :)

-Juju

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