Skip to content

May 29

Argentina

Argentina : The Other Land Down Under

The magnificent land of M’s.  So what it is about this country that puts the letter “M” in my head?  Let’s see…the Andes Mountains, the infused beverage known as Mate, the birthplace of Lionel Messi (sudden twinkle in my eye), and what else….Ah, of course …Malbec.  But contrary to common belief that the Argentine wine industry is only praiseworthy because of Malbec, there is undoubtedly far more to this country than the narrow eye can see.

What many might not be aware of is that Argentina is a nearly textbook example of what ideal conditions for viticulture are.  The oh-so majestic wonder known as the Andes Mountains benefits Argentina’s wine production in more ways than one.  Acting as a shield from harsh coastal rainfall, the Andes influence a favorable lack of humidity that eliminates the risk of fungal diseases and mildew on the vines, therefore saving producers from the high costs of chemical spraying.  If you think the amazing Andes stop there, you’re wrong.  While the mountains present Argentina with the remarkable benefits of dry unpolluted air, the glaciers that cap the mountain peaks melt causing water to trickle down to the lower lands.  POOF… And now we have irrigation.  We’re still not done. The area’s high altitudes and clear skies call for both warm days that ripen the grapes and cool nights that revitalize the grapes’ acidity.  If that’s not just darn near perfect, well, let’s just agree that it is.

Keeping quite a close eye on the market down there is British-born wine professional Nigel Tollerman.  Now residing in Buenos Aires, Nigel graces the Argentinian wine industry as an internationally recognized sommelier, wine consultant, and founder of the prestigious wine retail delivery company 0800-VINO.

Curious about the outcome of Argentina’s 2012 harvest season, I thought to myself, who better to ask than Mr. Argentine Wine himself?  According to Nigel, this year presented a rather interesting situation for vineyards throughout the country and resulted in noticeably lower yields, particularly in Mendoza.  Salta and San Juan were further singled out by additional complications due to rains and the Zonda, or foehn, winds.  But as us California locals are learning from our past two vintages, vineyard struggle presents quality over quantity and enacts the survival of the fittest approach.  Nevertheless, I am definitely excited to taste the outcome of Argentina’s fascinating 2012 vintage.

If you find yourself in Buenos Aires and want the absolute “must-have” wine experience that this amazing country has to offer, Nigel is the man to speak to.

To contact Nigel, visit www.0800-vino.com or facebook.com/0800Vino.

 

Here are my thoughts on some lovable Argentines…

 

2010 Bodega Colomé Torrontés  – Salta 

Resurrecting childhood memories of drinking freshly squeezed lemonade on hot summer days in Southern California, this vivacious and intriguingly aromatic wine is a real treat with its notes of honeyed lemon, tangerine, lavender, white pepper, and a bitter green bell pepper finish. Basking in La Salta’s arid climate and high altitudes, this light bodied wine was naturally inoculated with booster shots of crisp acidity and dryness to keep your mouth watering for more.

 

 

2009 Alamos Chardonnay – Mendoza

Like a nourishing granola based breakfast, this Chardonnay contains all of the bits to my puzzle.   With a rich body that offers a muesli of grapefruit, pineapple, cinnamon, vanilla, and walnuts, this whole-hearted wine comforts the palate but then ends with an intense kick of white pepper to leave you something to remember it by.  Sort of like Sour Patch Kids….but backwards.

 

 

 

 

2009 Achaval Ferrer Malbec- Mendoza

Strikingly lascivious by nature, this Malbec would have Chris de Burgh singing “The Lady in Red” like it was 1986 again.  This coincidentally Argentinian born singer would be hypnotized by this wine’s deep color and pleasing aromas of blackberry, boysenberry, and dark chocolate.  But just as you think this lady’s going to give it all away, she teases back with a powerful jolt of tobacco, cloves, and black tea bitterness on the finish.  And what do you know…now you’re in love.

 

-Juju

Apr 24

4441556_print

For the Love of Lagrein

Nonchalantly directing my lovestruck eyes back over to that ever-so-amazing boot, here is yet another Italian splendor to swoon over.  Native to the land, Lagrein is ruby red treasure nestled in the mountainous terrain of northeast Italy’s Trentino-Alto Adige.  Not too young and not too old, mention of this particular grape can be traced back to as early as the 17th century in records of the Muri Benedictine monastery in Alto Adige.

As this land was semi-recently Red Rover’d to Italy post WWI, the German language still heavily dictates over the area.  With its parameters border lining the Austrian Tyrol, the locals still refer to the area as Südtirol, translating to South Tyrol.

So back to the actual grape…Lagrein is a deep colored grape that burgeons well in this region’s Alpine-continental climate and primitive soils of quartz, limestone, sandy marl, and calcareous clay.  The multifarious pieces to this intricate puzzle form together to create wines that are high in both acidity and tannin with bright fruit and savory characteristics.  A varietal that has the grace and poise of a sophisticated lady with the mysterious dark side of a seductress… Gentlemen…if wine were human, you’ve just met your dream girl.

 

Here were my thoughts on a few that I’ve tasted recently…

 

2010 Tiefenbrunner Lagrein

A spicy little number this one is with its invigorating bouquet of freshly baked gingerbread and cinnamon.  Inky in color with velvety tannins and youthful acidity, this kick-in-the-mouth wine bombards the palate with notes of violet, blueberry turnover, red chili pepper, volcanic smokiness, minerality and a powdery finish.

 

 

2008 Cantina Andrian Lagrein Riserva Tor di Lupo 

Fruity, spicy, and savory- just like Christmas in a bottle.  This deep colored wine expresses aromas of roast pork, cocoa powder and dried coconut.  Still blazing in acidity while smoothing out in tannin, the palate is presented with the gifts of black cherry, blackcurrant, allspice, nutmeg, dark chocolate, savory meat, and cola on the finish.

 

 

2010 Elena Walch Lagrein

Pollyanna meets Rebel Without a Cause.  This wine starts off prim and proper with a perfume of blackberry, blueberry, and pink rose petals.  Onto the palate, this little rebel gives that perfume an edge with bold tartness, spicy cloves, a full body and robust structure.  Pollyanna returns to win you back with the elegantly integrated tannin and creamy hints of malolactic fermentation.

 

 

-Juju

Apr 9

9474290_print
2 Comments

German Love

As my tribute to the inexplicably mesmerizing wines of Deutschland, this article is titled after the song “German Love” by one of my all-time favorite indie bands, Starf*cker.  But don’t be fooled by the name, this Portland band makes feel-good music that is ultra comforting and upbeat with a sweetheart touch.  Just like German wine.

 

Those of us who can appreciate a good German Riesling can probably agree on one thing… these are the ultimate comfort food of wines.  Taking in the utter richness of its sweet silhouette while indulging in its tangy zest, an aged German can put someone in a state of pure serenity and glee.  Just like the song, it simply makes you happy.

When it comes to wine, I will always be a sucker for a good ole German. And just like a classic car, these beauties become even more of a priceless treasure as the years go by.  Here are some of the Germans that have made me fall head over heels in love recently.

And if you’d like to hear the song, click below…

Starf*cker – German Love

 

1976 Schloss Johannisberger Riesling Spätlese –Rheingau

Just like a 1950’s pin-up girl, this Riesling is breathtakingly gorgeous with a voluptuous body.  Still showing fresh acidity, this wine presents succulent notes of dried mango, candied ginger, honeycomb, lilac, minerality, and an herbal finish of jasmine tea leaves. No doubt about it, this old-timer has still got it.

 

1990 Karthäuserhof Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Auslese - Mosel

A scandalous and guilty pleasure of sweet and creamy. The wine starts off with a lovely nose of petrol, honeydew melon, and an essence of lavender.  On the palate, the wine expresses sweet citrus, tropical fruit, ambrosia salad, and coconut milk.  Pleasantly bright in acidity and creamy to the touch.

 

 

 

1990 Freiherr Langwerth von Simmern Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling Spätlese- Rheingau

Showing maturity but still a kid at heart, this Riesling still has crisp acidity while exuding fresh aromas of tropical fruit, lilacs, and gasoline. The palate is taken for a whirlwind with the wine’s notes fried banana, pineapple, nutmeg, cinnamon, slate minerality, and an herbal finish of green tea.

 

 

2006 Erben von BeulwitzKaseler Nies’chen Riesling Auslese Alte Reben- Mosel

A handsome young lad of a Riesling with invigorating aromas of creamy coconut and lychee.  Fragrantly floral on the palate with a luscious body, this wine triggers notes of candied pineapple, ruby red grapefruit, tangerines, honeysuckle, and lavender.

 

 

 

2009 Dr. Loosen Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese – Mosel

So typical of Dr. Loosen, this is a stunning off-dry Riesling with a smooth body and brisk acidity. The nose is powered by ripe apple, honeysuckle, slate minerality and slight hints of kerosene making an appearance. Honeyed fruit, lemon, nutmeg, jasmine, kumquat and peppermint further decorate the palate of this truly excellent wine.

 

-Juju

Mar 26

5346511_print

Bordeaux…You’re Brilliant.

If there is one thing that I am guilty of, although there are many, it’s that I don’t give enough love to Bordeaux.  With a never-ending supply of veteran wine critics and writers who focus a vast majority of their attention on this region and its portfolio of the world’s most highly collected wines, my reasoning is simple…Everyone else is always writing about it.

 

Not that I need to constantly be a black sheep, but in a world of wine that is still very French-heavy I often find it personally fulfilling to show support for the underdogs of the wine industry.  But underneath it all, I can’t deny the true wonders that are Bordeaux.

And as much as the month of February seemed to have Burgundy as the main theme, March has been overflowing with Bordeaux.  So it only seems fitting that I dedicate this article to some of the marvelous Bordeaux wines that have graced my glass this month and what my thoughts were on them.

1982 Château Certan De May – Pomerol

Explosive aromas of black plum, black cherry, and an old dusty sneaker store. Sinuous tannin and upholding acidity with notes of forest floor, dusty wood, sage and mocha on the finish to complete a well integrated Pomerol that is drinking fantastically now.

 

1986 Château Haut-Brion – Pessac-Léognan

Exposing its maturity with a ruby core and slightly tawny rim, this blend is amazingly synergized with its tannin and bright acidity.  With aromas like that of a dusty barnyard after the rain, on the palate it displays black cherry, peppercorn, salted pork, menthol, and an earthy finish.



1988 Château Gruaud Larose Grand Cru – Saint-Julien

An impressive wine with pungent and satisfying aromas of charcoaled zucchini, dried roses, black plum, and blackberry. A powerful combination of gripping tannin and juicy acidity, this wine presents the palate with notes of rotisserie meat, tar, black pepper and a smoky finish.

 

1995 Château Monbousquet – Saint Émilion

A cloudy ruby color with intriguing aromas of dusty pinewood and black currant.  Elegant yet powerful in tannin and acidity, the velvety personality of this wine shows a superb palate of black cherry, black licorice, nutmeg, cedar, black pepper, and a dry dirt finish.

 

1995 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande– Pauillac
A perfect combination of grace and muscle, this wine expresses aromas of smoked meat, lavender, red plum & red cherry.  Tickling tannin and perpetuating acidity is well partnered with a palate of cough syrup, burnt wood, black pepper, and barbecued asparagus on the finish.

 

2008 Château Hosanna – Pomerol

A velvety masterpiece with an addicting mixture of sophistication and rugged masculinity.  This wine layers in notes of black plum, blackberry, lilac, espresso beans, dark chocolate, tar, and minerality on the finish.  With such delicious intensity and poise, it will be exciting to see how this wine develops over the next two decades.

 

2008 Château Brane-Cantenac – Margaux

Dense in structure yet refined in flavor, this wine is a real showstopper with aromas of freshly cut pink roses, creamy blackberry, blueberry, and cinnamon.  A smooth operator with a voluptuous body and well integrated tannin, the journey is continued onto the palate with notes of cloves, savory meat, jalapeno, vanilla extract, a malt chocolate finish.

 

 

And I can’t forget to show some love to the whites…

 

2009 Château Lamothe Blanc de Haux

 An incredible value wine retailing at about $14, a crisp white with aromas of sea grasses, bruised apple, pear, and jasmine.  On the palate, its light body and fresh acidity is harmonized with notes of sea salt, white pepper, minerality, and a grassy finish.

 

 

2003 Château Climens – Barsac, Sauternes

A world without Sauternes is no world at all.  The nose of this wine is absolutely invigorating with aromas of pineapple, candied tangerine, and slight nail varnish.  With its full body and sensational acidity, this wine offers the palate a succulent combination of sugar and spice with notes of salted caramel, toffee, marmalade, cocoa powder, vanilla leaf, Chai spice, and Hot Tamales (the candy) on the finish.

-Juju

Mar 13

Tasteful Tannins Central Otago
2 Comments

Central Otago – A True Kiwi Wonder

New Zealand – A country blessed with tranquil landscapes, adventurous mountain ranges, never-ending natural wonders, and of course, the All Blacks.  But for now, I’ll keep the daydreaming of muscular rugby players performing the Haka to a minimum…..Okay and back on track.  With the amazing lineup of geological marvels that make up these two islands in the South Pacific, it should surprise no one that this country is home to yet another natural phenomenon…wine.

So what is it about wine that makes New Zealand even more amazing? Two words – Central Otago. It has been heavily debated in the past, but until someone decides to grow grapes in Antarctica (with climate change who knows, right?) Central Otago is currently the most southern wine region in the entire world. Being the highest in altitude for New Zealand wines, these vineyards rest upon the glacial valleys that blanket the central portion of the South Island. Sheltered by rugged mountain landscapes, Central Otago has desert like conditions and is the only area of the country that receives a consistent Continental climate with hot dry summers and brisk winters.

Geeked out yet?  Just a little bit more, I promise…

Those aspects paired with a range of quick draining soils from glacial schist, loams, and windblown sands elicit the region’s focus on Pinot Noir, Riesling, and Pinot Gris. Known to produce these wines in a style that is a perfect blend of  elegant, complex, and powerful, this region is truly a hidden gem with utterly remarkable wine. So to put that into layman’s terms, if you have never had wine from Central Otago in your glass, the injustice you’re doing to yourself is catastrophic.  Okay, maybe not that extreme, but you really should try it. :)

What producer from Central Otago do I like?

2010 Felton Road Bannockburn Pinot Noir – Central Otago, New Zealand

This youthful wine has a deep colored core with luscious aromas of burnt marshmallows and rose petals. Light in body with juicy acidity, this Pinot presents the palate with its gorgeous floral notes, strawberry, cinnamon, black pepper and new leather on the finish.

2010 Felton Road Cornish Point Pinot Noir – Central Otago, New Zealand

A bona fide crowd pleaser, this Pinot carries enticingly sweet aromas of black cherry, black plum, and violets. Light in weight, crisp with acidity, and graceful with tannins, this wine satisfies the palate with additional notes of cooked tomatoes, cocoa, black pepper, leather and an earthy finish.

-Juju

Tasteful Tannins Felton Road Central Otago

Mar 1

Corazón
4 Comments

Gewürztraminer: A New & Old World Beauty

Gewürztraminer – how to describe this wine… Flamboyant as a 16-year-old girl dolled up for a Madonna concert circa 1985.  As that can be a bit much for many people, gewürztraminer has had a rough history with trying to gain fans.  As the official grape varietal responsible for making me fall in love with wine several years ago, I am one of those who have learned to embrace its beauty.

Producing deep golden colored wines with undeniably pungent aromatics, this easily mutated pink skinned grape has a knotty history with strong speculation of it being synonymous with Savagnin Rose. As it is believed that Traminer originated in the village of Tramin in Alto Adige of Italy, gewürztraminer can now be found sporadically throughout both hemispheres.  Amongst these areas are Alsace in France, Germany, Austria, California & the Pacific Northwest, New Zealand, Australia, South Africa, and of course, Italy.

Although both the Old World and New World have produced these wines successfully, the slight differences in style can still be fairly distinguishable.  Having recently tasted a New World and an Old World gewürztraminer, both with a bit of age on them, here were my thoughts on how they compare.

New World

2001 Corison Gewürztraminer Corazón –  Anderson Valley, California

Another splendid creation from the Anderson Valley, this gewürztraminer is still kicking with its clever acidity and exotic aromas of fresh tropical fruit and honeysuckle.  On the palate this wine expresses the classic sweet and spicy combo of tangerine, lychee, ginger, nutmeg, white pepper, salty minerality, and a zesty bell pepper finish.

Old World

1998 Domaine Weinbach Gewürztraminer Altenbourg Vendanges Tardives –   Alsace, France

Alsace satisfies yet again with this mature golden hued wine and its perfume of fresh cut pineapple, lychee, orange marmalade and jasmine.  Both herbal and luscious like a sweetened tea, this wine further mesmerizes my palate with honeycomb, green cardamom, cumin, white pepper, pine needles, tree sap, spicy minerality, and flirty acidity that leaves me wanting more.


P.S.  If you haven’t already, give a gewürz a chance!  :)

-Juju

Feb 18

tasteful tannins heart

February – The Month of Love

February:  Short, sweet, and full of romance.  Not surprisingly, this particular month of mine was filled with oodles of red Burgundy.  And why wouldn’t it be?  Fragrant, velvety, complex, and seductive… ironically, everything that men love about women.  As Burgundy and its terroir are so utterly perplexing beyond any other wine region in the world, as is the love between humans.

Here is what I thought about some of the Burgundy wines that Cupid has flung my way during this amorous month.

2004 Joseph Drouhin Bonnes Mares

Another beautiful Burgundy creation from Joseph Drouhin with rustic aromas of barnyard and pastrami.  Simply juicy in acidity and elegant tannins are displayed alongside notes of red cherry, savory peppercorns, leather and an earthy tar finish.

 

 

 

 

 

 

2008 Domaine Joseph Roty Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Fontenys  

An incredibly attractive nose of toffee, red cherry, and menthol.  Light in body with fresh acidity, on the palate this wine exudes notes of Harar coffee beans, redcurrant, mint leaves, and a cedar finish.

 

 

 

 

2009 Domaine Michel Gros Chambolle-Musigny 

A striking wine with savory meatiness, red cherry, cranberry, and nutmeg on the nose. The palate reflects the nose with notes of salted ham, red berries, black pepper, and a bold kick of tobacco on the finish.  Light in body with sensible tannins, this wine really delivers.

 

 

 

 

 

 

2007 Domaine de la Vougeraie Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Bel-Air

Dark ruby in color with aromas of unripe strawberries, lavender, and dusty paper.  Earthy and spice is what I would consider this wine with its notes of red cherry, brown sugar, cocoa, black licorice, spicy minerality, and a charcoal finish.  There is nice acidity and this wine is quite voluptuous for a Pinot Noir.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2000 Domaine Jean Chauvenet Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Damodes 

This juxtapose vintage is fascinating and complex with strong secondary characteristics of black olives, wet leaves, and pronounced minerality. Despite these powerful features, this medium-body wine is still able to carry distinct fruit notes of strawberry jam and red cherry. I consider this wine a best of both worlds for Pinot Noir.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I hope you all had a wonderful Valentine’s Day!

-Juju

Feb 3

Tasteful Tannins Caserta
3 Comments

Pallagrello Who?

Recently some of the girls and I went out to dinner at San Francisco’s Perbacco Ristorante.  Not only is the food there absolutely incredible, but the Italian wines on their list are quite impressive as well.  One of the bottles that we decided to go with was from the Pallagrello Nero grape varietal.  Dating back to before the Roman Empire, this grape is primarily cultivated in the province of Caserta in Campania, Italy.  Although Pallagrello Nero is still seldom heard of, producers are starting to focus a bit more on these elegant wines that show some aging potential.  Here’s what I thought about the one that we drank that night.

Castello Ducale – 2009 Pallagrello Nero – Terre del Volturno IGT

Flabbergasted is a word that I would use to describe my initial reaction to this wine.  While having a beautiful ruby color, this wine exuded burly aromas of wet paper towels, dust, and plastic.  Thrown off by these, I decided to give the wine a fair chance on the palate.  Let’s just say I’m glad that I did.  Although this wine is a little rough around the edges with its rustic and barnyard characteristics, there is lavish red cherry and raspberry fruit that perfectly match the fragrant violets.  And it doesn’t end there.  The real back bone of this wine is in its notes of red meat, black pepper, savory spice, volcanic minerality, and a velvety vanilla finish.  With its medium body, suave tannins, and zesty acidity, this wine drinks well now and I think it could be even better in another couple of years.  This is a perfect example of why I love indigenous grapes, there’s so much to unravel!

-Juju

Jan 27

Tasteful Tannins port glass
2 Comments

Savory Averys

1963 Averys Special Reserve Vintage Port

I know that everyone is entitled to their own opinions, but who doesn’t love port?  This admirable 1963 vintage port bestows alluring notes of dried black currants and cola on the nose.  Full-bodied and retaining its delightful tannins, it seduces the palate with raisin, boysenberry preserves, black tea, black licorice, and dark chocolate.  With a lingering peppery finish, this cheeky port leaves the palate wanting more.         -Juju


Jan 19

hudelot noellet tasteful tannins. 2

A Little Hudelot at RN74

After a long and entertaining Sunday Funday, we found ourselves sipping on some wine while waiting for our table at RN74 in SOMA.  Another amazing establishment from the legendary Michael Mina, this restaurant also features Chef Jason Berthold and James Beard Award-Winning Author Rajat Parr.  For starters we shared the Burgundian Escargots, and for my main I had the Liberty Farm Duck Breast “A L’Orange”.  For dessert, we shared the luscious Milk Chocolate Pot De Crème.  Every part of the meal was,  in Layman’s terms, pretty damn awesome.  Whether you’re a local or just visiting SF, I highly recommend you book a table here.

Both of us ordering the duck as our main (I know, lame. Who gets matching meals? But I chose 1st :p), we decided to pair it with some Burgundy.  Here were my thoughts…

2006 Hudelot-Noellat Nuits St. Georges

Although the 2006 vintage is completely overshadowed by its world-famous predecessor, I thought that this wine was quite pleasing.  This deep ruby colored wine had rather bold aromas of juicy red cherry and incredibly fresh menthol.  On the palate,  this wine showcased notes of red cherry, red plum, leather, black pepper, and a bit of eucalyptus.  With its elegant tannins and bracing acidity, this wine leaves the palate with a delightful cedar and smoky finish.  Not an absolute jaw-dropper, but most definitely a charismatic wine that’s well worth a taste.

- Juju

← Older Entries
Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 28 other followers